Four points decide everything
A shirt that fits well does not depend on the brand or the price. It depends on four points, in this order of importance: the shoulder, the collar, the sleeve length and the ease across the chest.
If the shoulder is right, the rest can often be corrected. If the shoulder is wrong, nothing rescues it.
1. The shoulder, the non-negotiable point
The shoulder seam should land on the shoulder bone, where the arm begins. Not above, not on the arm.
A seam that falls too low gives a slumped look, even on an otherwise well-cut shirt. A seam that rides up onto the shoulder pulls across the back as soon as you raise your arms.
It is the one point that alteration does not easily fix. Start there.
2. The collar
The usual reference: you should be able to slide one finger between the closed collar and your neck, without forcing.
Too tight and the shirt becomes uncomfortable as soon as you talk or eat. Too loose and the collar gapes, and a tie knot, if you wear one, will not sit straight.
If you mostly wear the shirt open, a slightly more generous collar is acceptable. If you wear it closed, the finger test is the right one.
3. Sleeve length
The shirt cuff should stop at the base of the hand, where the wrist bends. With your arms at your sides, you should see the edge of the sleeve without it covering the hand.
Under a jacket, a well-set shirt leaves a little cuff showing. It is a detail, but it is the one people notice.
4. Ease across the chest
A shirt should not pull between the buttons when you are standing with your arms at your sides. If a button pulls, the cut is too tight, even if the shoulder is right.
Conversely, a shirt whose fabric forms a marked excess across the back is too roomy for you. Between the two, there is a good margin of acceptable comfort.
Slim cut or regular cut?
The regular cut leaves more ease across the chest and the waist. It is more comfortable for a long day and it suits most builds.
The slim cut follows the line of the body more closely. It gives a cleaner look, but it forgives less and it restricts movement a little.
There is no universal right answer. The useful question is: will you wear this shirt tucked or out, closed or open, eight hours or two? A shirt worn all day is better a little more comfortable.
Tucked or out
The length of the shirt body largely decides. A shirt cut long, with rounded tails, is made to be tucked. A shirt cut shorter, with a straighter hem, is worn out well.
The simple reference: worn out, the hem should land around the middle of the fly. Any longer and the silhouette gets squashed.
Checking in store
Three moves are enough. Raise your arms in front of you: the shirt should not pull out of the trousers completely. Cross your arms: the back should not pull at the shoulder blades. Close the collar: the finger should pass.
Our in-store advisors do these checks every day, and it is often in three minutes that a question you hesitate over in front of a screen gets settled.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if a shirt is my size? Start with the shoulder. The seam should land on the shoulder bone.
What sleeve length? The cuff stops where the wrist bends, at the base of the hand.
Slim or regular? Regular for comfort and versatility, slim for a cleaner line.
Can a shirt be worn out? Yes, if it is cut for it, with a fairly straight hem that is not too long.
